Eight-thousander

Peaks higher than 8,000 m

Locations of the world's 14 eight-thousanders

The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation or UIAA recognises eight-thousanders as the 14 mountains that are more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and are considered to be sufficiently independent from neighbouring peaks. However, there is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and, since 2012, the UIAA has been involved in a process to consider whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountains. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits are in the death zone.

The first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders was Italian Reinhold Messner in 1986, who completed the feat without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2010, Spaniard Edurne Pasaban, became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, but with the aid of supplementary oxygen; in 2011, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without the aid of supplementary oxygen.

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 of the eight-thousanders were summited, however, it was not until January 2021, with the Nepalese winter ascent of K2, that all eight-thousanders had been summited during the winter season.

On 29 October 2019, Nepalese climber Nirmal Purja, set a speed record by climbing all eight-thousanders in 6 months and 6 days.^[1][2]

Climbing history

Flight over Khumbu-region; six eight-thousanders and some seven-thousanders are visible

The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander was when Albert F. Mummery, Geoffrey Hastings and J. Norman Collie tried to climb Pakistan's Nanga Parbat in 1895. The attempt failed when Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir Thapa and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.^[3]

The first recorded successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by the French Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on 3 June 1950 during the 1950 French Annapurna expedition .^[4] The first winter ascent of an eight-thousander was done by a Polish team led by Andrzej Zawada on Mount Everest. Two climbers Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki reached the summit on 17 February 1980.^[5]

The first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders was Italian Reinhold Messner, on 16 October 1986. In 1987, Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person to accomplish this feat. Kukuczka is also the man who established the most new routes (9) on the main eight-thousanders. Messner summited each of the 14 peaks without the aid of bottled oxygen. This feat was not repeated until nine years later by the Swiss Erhard Loretan in 1995. Phurba Tashi of Nepal has completed the most climbs of the eight-thousanders, with 30 ascents between 1998 and 2011.^[6] Spaniard Juanito Oiarzabal has completed the second most, with a total of 25 ascents between 1985 and 2011.^[7]

The Italian Simone Moro made the most first winter ascents of eight-thousanders (4); Jerzy Kukuczka made four winter ascents as well, but one was a repetition. The final eight-thousander to be climbed in the winter season was K2, which was summitted by a 10-person Nepalese team led by Nirmal Purja on 16 January 2021.^[8]

30–highest peaks above 500 m (1,640 ft) in prominence.^[9]

In 2010, Spanish climber Edurne Pasaban, became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders with no disputed climbing.^[10] In August 2011, Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplementary oxygen.^[11][12]

The first couple and team who summited all 14 eight-thousanders together were the Italians Nives Meroi (second woman without supplementary oxygen), and her husband Romano Benet [it] in 2017. The couple climbed alpine style, without the use of supplementary oxygen and other aids.^[13]

As of November 2018^[update], the country with the most climbers to have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders is Italy with seven climbers, followed by Spain with six climbers, and South Korea with five climbers. Kazakhstan and Poland each have three climbers who have completed the "Crown of the Himalaya" (all 14 eight-thousanders).

On 29 October 2019, former Nepalese Gurka, and Special Boat Service (SBS) elite soldier Nirmal Purja, set a new speed record by climbing the 14 eight-thousanders in 6 months and 6 days, beating the previous record of just under 8 years.^[1][2]

List of 14

Selected data for the 14 eight-thousanders^[14][15]

Mountain[14]					First ascent[14]		First winter ascent[14]		From 1950 to March 2012[15]			Climber Death Rate[16][17][a]
Peak	Height[18]	Prom.[18]	Isol.[18]	Location	Date	Summiter(s)	Date	Summiter(s)	Total Ascents[b]	Total Deaths[c]	Deaths / Ascents[d]
Everest	8,848 metres (29,029 ft)	8,848 metres (29,029 ft)	undefined or infinite	Nepal China	29 May 1953	Edmund Hillary Tenzing Norgay on British expedition	17 February 1980	Krzysztof Wielicki Leszek Cichy	5656	223	3.9%	1.52%
K2	8,611 metres (28,251 ft)	4,020 metres (13,190 ft)	1,315.6 kilometres (817.5 mi)	Pakistan China[20]	31 July 1954	Achille Compagnoni Lino Lacedelli on Italian expedition	16 January 2021[8]	Nirmal Purja Gelje Sherpa Mingma David Sherpa Mingma G Sona Sherpa Mingma Tenzi Sherpa Pem Chhiri Sherpa Dawa Temba Sherpa Kili Pemba Sherpa Dawa Tenjing Sherpa	306	81	26.5%	–[e]
Kangchenjunga	8,586 metres (28,169 ft)	3,922 metres (12,867 ft)	124.2 kilometres (77.2 mi)	Nepal India[21]	25 May 1955	George Band Joe Brown on British expedition	11 January 1986	Krzysztof Wielicki Jerzy Kukuczka	283	40	14.1%	3.00%
Lhotse	8,516 metres (27,940 ft)	610 metres (2,000 ft)	2.4 kilometres (1.5 mi)	Nepal China	18 May 1956	Fritz Luchsinger Ernst Reiss	31 December 1988	Krzysztof Wielicki	461	13	2.8%	1.03%
Makalu	8,485 metres (27,838 ft)	2,378 metres (7,802 ft)	17.2 kilometres (10.7 mi)	Nepal China	15 May 1955	Jean Couzy Lionel Terray on French expedition	9 February 2009	Simone Moro Denis Urubko	361	31	8.6%	1.63%
Cho Oyu	8,188 metres (26,864 ft)	2,344 metres (7,690 ft)	27.7 kilometres (17.2 mi)	Nepal China	19 October 1954	Joseph Joechler Pasang Dawa Lama Herbert Tichy	12 February 1985	Maciej Berbeka Maciej Pawlikowski	3138	44	1.4%	0.64%
Dhaulagiri I	8,167 metres (26,795 ft)	3,357 metres (11,014 ft)	317.4 kilometres (197.2 mi)	Nepal	13 May 1960	Kurt Diemberger Peter Diener Nawang Dorje Nima Dorje Ernst Forrer Albin Schelbert	21 January 1985	Andrzej Czok Jerzy Kukuczka	448	69	15.4%	2.94%
Manaslu	8,163 metres (26,781 ft)	3,092 metres (10,144 ft)	105.5 kilometres (65.6 mi)	Nepal	9 May 1956	Toshio Imanishi Gyalzen Norbu	12 January 1984	Maciej Berbeka Ryszard Gajewski	661	65	9.8%	2.77%
Nanga Parbat	8,125 metres (26,657 ft)	4,608 metres (15,118 ft)	187.9 kilometres (116.8 mi)	Pakistan	3 July 1953	Hermann Buhl on German–Austrian expedition	26 February 2016	Muhammad Ali Sadpara Simone Moro Alex Txikon	335	68	20.3%	–[e]
Annapurna I	8,091 metres (26,545 ft)	2,984 metres (9,790 ft)	33.7 kilometres (20.9 mi)	Nepal	3 June 1950	Maurice Herzog Louis Lachenal on French expedition	3 February 1987	Jerzy Kukuczka Artur Hajzer	191	61	31.9%	4.05%
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak)	8,080 metres (26,510 ft)	2,155 metres (7,070 ft)	23.4 kilometres (14.5 mi)	Pakistan China	5 July 1958	Andrew Kauffman Pete Schoening	9 March 2012	Adam Bielecki Janusz Gołąb	334	29	8.7%	–[e]
Broad Peak	8,051 metres (26,414 ft)	1,701 metres (5,581 ft)	8.6 kilometres (5.3 mi)	Pakistan China	9 June 1957	Fritz Wintersteller Marcus Schmuck Kurt Diemberger Hermann Buhl	5 March 2013	Maciej Berbeka Adam Bielecki Tomasz Kowalski Artur Małek	404	21	5.2%	–[e]
Gasherbrum II	8,034 metres (26,358 ft)	1,524 metres (5,000 ft)	5.3 kilometres (3.3 mi)	Pakistan China	7 July 1956	Fritz Moravec Josef Larch Hans Willenpart	2 February 2011	Simone Moro Denis Urubko Cory Richards	930	21	2.3%	–[e]
Shishapangma	8,027 metres (26,335 ft)	2,897 metres (9,505 ft)	90.8 kilometres (56.4 mi)	China	2 May 1964	Xu Jing Chang Chun-yen Wang Fuzhou Chen San Cheng Tien-liang Wu Tsung-yue Sodnam Doji Migmar Trashi Doji Yonten	14 January 2005	Piotr Morawski Simone Moro	302	25	8.3%

Proposed expansion

In 2012, to relieve capacity pressure,^[22] overcrowding on the world’s highest mountain was tackled by placing greater restrictions on expeditions to the summit of Mount Everest. The move is a response to growing problems with litter, pollution and recent clashes between Sherpas and Western climbers. But, in an attempt to appease those hoping to conquer the 29,029 ft (8,848 m) tall peak, the Nepalese government is to open access to five other summits that sit over 26,247 ft (8,000 m) and develop climbing tourism. Nepal lobbied the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (or UIAA) to reclassify five summits (two on Lhotse and three on Kanchenjunga), as standalone eight-thousanders, while Pakistan lobbied for a sixth summit (on Broad Peak).^[23] The UIAA initiated in 2012 what it calls the ARUGA project with an aim to see if new 8,000 m (26,247 ft)-plus could feasibly achieve international recognition. Under that project, Nepal had tabled five new peaks and Pakistan had tabled one. In 2012, the UIAA set up a project group to consider the proposals called the AGURA Project.^[23] The six proposed summits for reclassification are subsidiary-summits of existing eight-thousanders, but which are also themselves above 8,000 m (26,247 ft) and have a prominence above 60 m (197 ft).

  Proposed to the UIAA in 2012 for reclassification as standalone eight-thousanders.^[23]

List of the subsidiary peaks of the 14 eight-thousanders.^[24]

Proposed new eight-thousander	Height (m)	Prominence (m)	Dominance (Prom / Height)[25]	Dominance classification[25]
Broad Peak Central	8011	181	2,26	B2
Kangchenjunga W-Peak (Yalung Kang)	8505	135	1,59	C1
Kangchenjunga S-Peak	8476	116	1,37	C2
Kangchenjunga C-Peak	8473	63	0,74	C2
Lhotse C-Peak I	8410	65	0,77	C2
Lhotse Shar	8382	72	0,86	C2
K 2 SW-Peak	8580	30	0,35	D1
Lhotse C-Peak II	8372	37	0,44	D1
Everest W-Peak	8296	30	0,36	D1
Yalung Kang Shoulder	8200	40	0,49	D1
Kangchenjunga SE-Peak	8150	30	0,37	D1
K 2 P. 8134 (SW-Ridge)	8134	35	0,43	D1
Annapurna C-Peak	8013	49	0,61	D1
Nanga Parbat S-Peak	8042	30	0,37	D1
Annapurna E-Peak	7986	65	0,81	C2
Shisha Pangma C-Peak	8008	30	0,37	D1
Everest NE-Shoulder	8423	19	0,23	D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle III	8383	13	0,16	D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle III	8327	10	0,12	D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle II	8307	12	0,14	D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle I	8290	10	0,12	D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle II	8282	25	0,30	D2

The proposed six new eight-thousander peaks would not meet the wider UIAA criteria of 600 m (1,969 ft) of elevation from nearest larger mountain's saddle, called topographic prominence, as used by the UIAA elsewhere for major mountains (the lowest prominence of the existing 14 eight-thousanders is Lhotse, at 610 metres (2,001 ft)).^[26][27] For example, only Broad Peak Central, with a topographic prominence of 181 metres (594 ft), would even meet the 150 metres (492 ft) prominence threshold to be a British Isles Marilyn.^[26] However, the appeal noted the UIAA's 1994 reclassification of Alpine four-thousander peaks, where a prominence threshold of 30 m (98 ft) was used,^[f] amongst other criteria; the logic being that if 30 m (98 ft) worked for 4,000 m (13,123 ft) summits, then 60 m (197 ft) is proportional for 8,000 m (26,247 ft) summits.^[28]

As of November 2018^[update], there has been no conclusion by the UIAA and the proposals appear to have been set aside.

Climbers of all 14

There is no single undisputed source for verified Himalayan ascents; however, Elizabeth Hawley's The Himalayan Database,^[29] is considered as an important source for the Nepalese Himalayas.^[30][31] Online ascent databases pay close regard to The Himalayan Database, including the website AdventureStats.com,^[32] and the Eberhard Jurgalski List.^[33] Various mountaineering journals, including the Alpine Journal and the American Alpine Journal, maintain extensive records and archives but do not always opine on ascents.

Verified ascents

Reinhold Messner, first to climb all 14 eight-thousanders, and first to do so without supplementary oxygen.

Edurne Pasaban, first woman to climb all 14 eight-thousanders after Oh Eun-sun’s claim was disputed.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, first woman to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen.

  First male to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders, and first to do so without supplementary oxygen

  First female to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders; with supplementary oxygen

  First female to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders; no supplementary oxygen

  Fastest ascent of all 14 eight-thousanders

  Youngest person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders

The "No O₂" column lists people who have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen.

List of climbers who have summited all 14 eight-thousanders.^[34]

Order	Order (No O2)	Name	Period	Born	Age	Nationality
1	1	Reinhold Messner	1972–1986	1944	42	Italian
2		Jerzy Kukuczka	1979–1987	1948	39	Polish
3	2	Erhard Loretan	1982–1995	1959	36	Swiss
4	[35]	Carlos Carsolio	1985–1996	1962	33	Mexican
5		Krzysztof Wielicki	1980–1996	1950	46	Polish
6	3	Juanito Oiarzabal	1985–1999	1956	43	Spanish
7		Sergio Martini	1983–2000	1949	51	Italian
8		Park Young-seok	1993–2001	1963	38	Korean
9		Um Hong-gil	1988–2001	1960[36]	40	Korean
10	4	Alberto Iñurrategi	1991–2002[37]	1968	33	Spanish
11		Han Wang-yong	1994–2003	1966	37	Korean
12	5[38]	Ed Viesturs	1989–2005	1959	46	American
13	6[39][40][41]	Silvio Mondinelli	1993–2007	1958	49	Italian
14	7[42]	Ivan Vallejo	1997–2008	1959	49	Ecuadorian
15	8[43]	Denis Urubko	2000–2009	1973	35	Kazakhstani
16		Ralf Dujmovits	1990–2009	1961[44]	47	German
17	9	Veikka Gustafsson	1993–2009	1968	41	Finnish
18[45]		Andrew Lock	1993–2009	1961[46]	48	Australian
19	10	João Garcia	1993–2010	1967	43	Portuguese
20[47]		Piotr Pustelnik	1990–2010	1951	58	Polish
21[48]		Edurne Pasaban	2001–2010	1973	36	Spanish
22[49]		Abele Blanc	1992–2011[50][51]	1954	56	Italian
23		Mingma Sherpa	2000–2011[50]	1978	33	Nepali
24	11	Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner	1998–2011[50]	1970	40	Austrian
25		Vassily Pivtsov	2001–2011[50]	1975	36	Kazakhstani
26	12	Maxut Zhumayev	2001–2011[50]	1977	34	Kazakhstani
27		Kim Jae-soo	2000–2011[50]	1961	50	Korean
28[52]	13	Mario Panzeri	1988–2012	1964	48	Italian
29[53]		Hirotaka Takeuchi	1995–2012[53]	1971	41	Japanese
30		Chhang Dawa Sherpa	2001–2013[50]	1982	30	Nepali
31	14	Kim Chang-ho	2005–2013[50]	1970	43	Korean
32		Jorge Egocheaga	2002–2014[54]	1968	45	Spanish
33	15	Radek Jaroš	1998–2014[50]	1964	50	Czech
34/35[55]	16/17[55]	Nives Meroi	1998–2017[56][57]	1961	55	Italian
34/35[55]	16/17[55]	Romano Benet [it]	1998–2017[56][57][58]	1962	55	Italian Slovenian
36	18	Peter Hámor	1998–2017[59]	1964	52	Slovak
37	19	Azim Gheychisaz	2008–2017[60]	1981	37	Iranian
38		Ferran Latorre	1999–2017[61]	1970	46	Spanish
39	20	Òscar Cadiach	1984–2017[62]	1952	64	Spanish
40		Kim Mi-gon	2000–2018[63][64]	1973	45	Korean
41		Sanu Sherpa	2006–2019[65]	1975	44	Nepali
42		Nirmal Purja	2014–2019[2][66][g]	1983	36	Nepali
43		Mingma Gyabu Sherpa	2010–2019[67][68]	1989	30	Nepali

Disputed ascents

Claims have been made for all 14 peaks in which not enough evidence was provided to verify the ascent. The disputed ascent in each claim is shown in parentheses. In most cases, the Himalayan chronicler Elizabeth Hawley is considered the definitive source regarding the facts of the dispute. Her The Himalayan Database is the source for other online Himalayan ascent databases (e.g. AdventureStats.com).^[30][31]

Cho Oyu is a recurrent problem peak as it is a small hump about 30 mins into the summit plateau, and the main proxy of a view of Everest, which is possible from the true summit, requires clear weather.^[69][70] Shishapangma is another problem peak because of its dual summits, which despite being close in height, are up to two hours climbing time apart.^[71] Hawley judged that Ed Viesturs had not reached the true summit, and he re-climbed the mountain to definitively establish his ascent.^[72]

Name	Period	Born	Age	Nationality
Fausto De Stefani (Lhotse 1997)[73] (His partner Sergio Martini reclimbed Lhotse in 2000 to verify his 14, see above)	1983–1998	1952	46	Italian
Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990)[74][75] (Hinkes rejects Hawley's decision to "unrecognise" his Cho Oyu ascent, see "Cho Oyu dispute")	1987–2005	1954	53	British
Vladislav Terzyul (Shishapangma (West) Summit 2000, Broad Peak 1995[76][77])[78][79] (As he did not claim the main summit of Shishapangma, this status is unlikely to change)	1993–2004 (deceased)	1953	49	Ukrainian
Oh Eun-sun (Kangchenjunga 2009)[80][81][82] (As the potential first female climber of all 14, this dispute was followed internationally)[81]	1997–2010	1966	44	Korean
Carlos Pauner (Shishapangma 2012)[83] (Pauner acknowledged his uncertainty as it was dark, but says he might reclimb to remove the doubt)[84]	2001–2013	1963	50	Spanish
Zhang Liang (Shishapangma 2018)[85][86][87] (According Chinese state media and The Himalayan Times, Zhang completed all 14 with other three climbers in the 2018 Chinese Shishapangma expedition, which is suspected that they only reached the central summit)	2000–2018	1964	54	Chinese

Gallery

• No. 1 – Everest

• No. 2 – K2

• No. 3 – Kangchenjunga

• No. 4 – Lhotse

• No. 5 – Makalu

• No. 6 – Cho Oyu

• No. 7 – Dhaulagiri

• No. 8 – Manaslu

• No. 9 – Nanga Parbat

• No. 10 – Annapurna

• No. 11 – Gasherbrum I

• No. 12 – Broad Peak

• No. 13 – Gasherbrum II

• No. 14 – Shishapangma

Comparison of the heights of the Eight-thousanders (red triangles) with the Seven Summits and Seven Second Summits.

See also

• Explorers Grand Slam, the North Pole, the South Pole, and the Seven Summits
• List of deaths on eight-thousanders
• List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit
• List of ski descents of eight-thousanders
• Three Poles Challenge, the North Pole, the South Pole, and Mount Everest
• Volcanic Seven Summits, the highest volcanos on each continent

Notes

1. Per The Himalayan Database (HDB) tables, the Climber (or Member) Death Rate is the ratio of deaths above base camp, of all climbers who were hoping to summit and who went above base camp, for 1950 to 2009, and is closer to a true probability of death; the data is only for Nepalese Himalaya. Summary tables from the HDB report for all mountains above 8,000 metres, imply that the death rate for the period 1990 to 2009 (e.g. modern expeditions), is roughly half that of the combined 1950 to 2009 period.^[16]
2. As recorded by Eberhard Jurgalski
3. As recorded by Eberhard Jurgalski and being any death (climber or other) above Base Camp.^[19]
4. This should not be mistaken as being a death rate; it does not imply a probabiltiy of death for a climber attempting to climb an eight-thousander as it includes all deaths from all activities undertaken above base camp (e.g. training or reconissance trips, camp stocking activities by porters who will not be summiting the mountain, rescue attempts etc.). It therefore compares deaths from the larger group of people who were, and were not, making a summit attempt, with the smaller group who were making a summit attempt. While it is not a probability, the statistic does reflect the ratio of people who died above base camp for each climber who summited.
5. Data is not available for the Pakistani Himalayas
6. The UIAA main list also includes summits that have a prominence far lower than 30 metres.
7. Nirmal Purja climbed all fourteen 8,000m peaks between April 2019 and October 2019, but climbed his first, Dhaulagiri, in 2014.

References

1. Sports Editor (29 October 2019). "Nirmal Purja: Ex-soldier climbs 14 highest mountains in six months". BBC News. Retrieved 24 December 2019. A Nepali mountaineer and former British Marine has climbed the world's tallest 14 peaks in six months - beating an earlier record of almost eight years.
2. Freddie Wilkinson. "Nepal climber makes history speed climbing world's tallest peaks". National Geographic. Retrieved 24 December 2019. On October 29th, Nirmal Purja Magar announced via Instagram that he had summited China's Shishapangma. This marked the fourteenth 8,000-meter peak he had climbed in seven months and the completion of an extraordinary project to speed climb the world's tallest mountains in rapid succession.
3. "Fast Facts About Nanga Parbat". climbing.about.com. Retrieved 29 May 2015.
4. Herzog, Maurice (1951). Annapurna: First Conquest of an 8000-meter Peak. Translated from the French by Nea Morin and Janet Adam Smith. New York: E.P Dutton & Co. p. 257.
5. Zawada, Andrzej (1984). Translated by Doubrawa-Cochlin, Ingeborga; Cochlin, Peter. "Mount Everest: The First Winter Ascent" (PDF). The Alpine Journal: 50–59.
6. "Preliminary stats: Himalaya and Everest 2011 spring review". ExplorersWeb. 8 June 2013. Retrieved 4 January 2014.
7. "Lhotse Summits". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 4 January 2014.
8. Farmer, Ben (16 January 2021). "Former Gurkha Nirmal Purja among Nepalese climbers to complete first winter ascent of deadly K2". The Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 16 January 2021.
9. PEAKBAGGER: World 7200-meter Peaks (Ranked Peaks have 500 meters of Clean Prominence)
10. "Oh Eun-Sun report, final: Edurne Pasaban takes the throne". ExplorersWeb. 10 December 2010. Retrieved 4 January 2014.
11. "Austrian woman claims Himalayas climbing record". BBC News. 23 August 2011. Retrieved 24 August 2011.
12. "Austrian is first woman to scale 14 peaks without oxygen". AsiaOne. 30 August 2011. Retrieved 4 January 2014.
13. "Alpinismo, il record di Meroi-Benet: è italiana la prima coppia su tutti gli Ottomila". 11 May 2017.
14. Eberhard Jurgalski. "General Info". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 21 February 2014.
15. "DAILY CHART: Stairway to heaven, how deadly are the world's highest mountains?". The Economist. 29 March 2013. For every three thrill-seekers that make it safely up and down Annapurna I, one dies trying, according to data from Eberhard Jurgalski of website 8000ers.com, collected in his forthcoming book "On Top of the World: The New Millennium", co-authored by Richard Sale.
16. Elizabeth Hawley; Richard Sailsbury (2011). "The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya" (PDF). p. 129. Table D-3: Deaths for peaks with more than 750 members above base camp from 1950–2009
17. "Himalayan Death Tolls". The Washington Post. 24 April 2014.
18. PeakBagger: World 8000–metre Peaks
19. Eberhard Jurgalski. "Fatalities tables". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 23 November 2018. Included are only fatalities from, at or above BC or caused from there. Fatalities on approach or return marches are not listed.
20. "K2 lies in Pakistan, near the northern border with China". BBC News.
21. Harding, Luke (13 July 2000). "Climbers banned from sacred peak". the Guardian. Retrieved 29 March 2018.
22. Richard Gray (23 August 2013). "The new peaks opened as alternatives to Mount Everest". The Daily Telegraph. Nepal
23. Navin Singh Khadka (18 October 2013). "Nepal mountain peak expansion bid stalls". BBC News.
24. Eberhard Jurgalski. "Subsidiary Peaks". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 23 November 2018. There are several different subsidiary peaks! Here are the geographical facts, from the one "relative independent Main-Peak" (EU category B) over the important subsidiary peaks (C) to the major notable points (D1) Especially the last category is just guessed by contours or from photographs.
25. Eberhard Jurgalski. "Dominance". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 23 November 2018. Accordingly, the author introduced altitude classes (AC) and a proportional prominence, which he named orometrical dominance (D). D is calculated easily but fittingly: (P/Alt) x 100. Thus, it indicates the percentage of independence for every elevation, no matter what the altitude, prominence or mountain type it is. From a scientific point of view, altitude could be seen as the thesis, prominence as the antithesis, whereas dominance would be the synthesis.
26. "Do we really need more 8000m peaks". Mark Horrell. 23 October 2013. The most prominent one, Broad Peak Central is just 196m high and the least prominent, Lhotse Middle, is a meagre 60m. To put this in context, the highest mountain in Malta is 253m, while the Eiffel Tower stands a whopping 300m.
27. "A funny name for a mountain". Mark Horrell. 4 June 2014.
28. "UIAA Mountain Classification: 4,000ERS OF THE ALPS". UIAA. March 1994. Topographic criterium: for each summit, the level difference between it and the highest adjacent pass or notch should be at least 30 m (98 ft) (calculated as average of the summits at the limit of acceptability). An additional criterium can be the horizontal distance between a summit and the base of another adjacent 4000er.
29. Elizabeth Hawley; Richard Salisbury (2018). "The Himalayan Database, The Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley". The Himalayan Database.
30. If a mountaineer wants worldwide recognition that they have reached the summit of some of the most formidable mountains in the world, they will need to get the approval of Elizabeth Hawley."Elizabeth Hawley, unrivalled Himalayan record keeper". BBC News. 29 August 2010.
31. "Elizabeth Hawley, Who Chronicled Everest Treks, Dies at 94". New York Times. 26 January 2018.
32. "High Altitude Mountaineering statistics". AdventureStats.com. 2018.
33. "Climbers who have ascended to the summits of all of the world's 14 mountains over 8000 metres". 8000ers.com (Eberhard Jurgalski). 2018.
34. Eberhard Jurgalski (26 May 2012). "Climbers – First 14". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 21 February 2014.
35. Carlos Carsolio required emergency oxygen on his descent from Makalu in 1988.
36. EverestNews2004.com, News (age calculated: in 2004 Hong-Gil Um was 44). "Mr. Um Hong Gil has bagged his 15th 8000 meter peak". Archived from the original on 21 June 2009. Retrieved 30 November 2008.
37. Kukuxumusu, Spanish News. "Alberto Iñurrategi achieves his fourteenth "eight thousand meters"". Archived from the original on 21 June 2009. Retrieved 30 November 2008.
38. "Best of ExplorersWeb 2005 Awards: Ed Viesturs and Christian Kuntner". Mounteverest.net. Archived from the original on 22 December 2008. Retrieved 30 November 2008. ...the American climber became one of only five men in the world to accomplish the quest entirely without supplementary oxygen.
39. Mounteverest.net. "The wolf is back: Gnaro bags Baruntse". Archived from the original on 28 October 2008. Retrieved 30 November 2008. Last year, Silvio 'Gnaro' Mondinelli broke the haunted 13 when he summited the last peak on his list of 14, 8000ers – becoming only the 6th mountaineer in the world to have bagged them all without supplementary oxygen.
40. "The day after: Silvio Mondinelli, Broad Peak and all 14 8000m summits". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 30 November 2008. 13/07 interview with Silvio Mondinelli after the summit of his 14th 8000m peak without supplementary oxygen.
41. "The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue". Mounteverest.net. Archived from the original on 11 May 2008. Retrieved 30 November 2008. Implied in text: ...Following Italian Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli last year and American Ed Viesturs in 2005, Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen.
42. "The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue". Mounteverest.net. Archived from the original on 11 May 2008. Retrieved 30 November 2008. ...Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen.
43. "Denis Urubko, Cho Oyu and all 14 8000m peaks". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 18 May 2009.
44. "Ralf Dujmovits". Ralf-dujmovits.de. Archived from the original on 15 July 2010. Retrieved 14 April 2010.
45. "Summit 8000 – Andrew Lock's quest to climb all fourteen of the highest mountains in the world". Andrew-lock.com. Retrieved 14 April 2010.
46. "Australia's Most Accomplished Mountaineer". Andrew Lock. 2 October 2009. Archived from the original on 21 July 2013. Retrieved 14 April 2010.
47. "Piotr Pustelnik summits Annapurna – bags the 14x8000ers!". Explorersweb.com. Retrieved 21 February 2014.
48. "Shisha Pangma: Edurne Pasaban summits – completes the 14x800ers". Explorersweb.com. Retrieved 21 February 2014.
49. "Abele Blanc summits Annapurna and all 8000ers". Planetmountain.com. Retrieved 21 February 2014.
50. "Climbers - First 14, updated table on 8000ers.com". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 21 February 2014.
51. "Everest – Mount Everest by climbers, news". Mounteverest.net. 18 May 2005. Archived from the original on 8 July 2012. Retrieved 21 January 2014.
52. "Mario Panzeri: sono in cima! E finalmente sono 14 ottomila". Montagna.tv. Archived from the original on 2 November 2013. Retrieved 21 February 2014.
53. "日本人初の快挙、8000m峰14座登頂 竹内洋岳". Nikkei.com. Retrieved 21 February 2014.
54. "Climbers – First 14". 8000ers.com. 13 August 2014. Retrieved 13 August 2014.
55. Nives Meroi and Romano Benet climbed all the Eight-thousanders together, it wasn't revealed if one of them climbed the last peak a few moments before the other, thus they share the same position
56. "Nives Meroi and Romano Benet summit Annapurna, their 14th 8000er". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 11 May 2017.
57. "Nives Meroi in Roman Benet preplezala 14 osemtisočakov". Sta.si (in Slovenian). Retrieved 11 May 2017.
58. "Slovenec s 15. osemtisočaka". Delo.si (in Slovenian). Retrieved 11 May 2017.
59. "Pokoril všetky osemtisícovky". skrsi.rtvs.sk. 16 May 2017. Retrieved 17 May 2017.
60. "قیچی‌ساز حماسه ساز شد/کوهنورد تبریزی به هشت هزاری‌ها پیوست". yjc. 19 May 2017. Retrieved 19 May 2017.
61. "Ferran Latorre completa los catorce ochomiles en el Everest" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 27 May 2017. Archived from the original on 5 July 2017. Retrieved 27 May 2017.
62. "Cadiach, camino del campo 3 tras coronar el Broad Peak" (in Spanish). La Vanguardia. 27 July 2017. Retrieved 27 July 2017.
63. "김미곤 히말라야 14봉 등정 보고회 열려" (in Korean). Mountain Journal. 27 July 2018. Retrieved 26 November 2019.
64. "South Korean Climbs Nanga Parbat, Completes 8,000ers". Gripped. 12 July 2018. Retrieved 26 November 2019.
65. "Sanu Sherpa becomes third Nepali to complete 14 peaks as Sergi Mingote scales 7 mountains in 444 days". The Himalayan Times. 3 October 2019. Retrieved 11 November 2019.
66. Dream Wanderlust (24 May 2019). "Nirmal Purja summits 5th eight-thousander in 12 days, ends 1st phase of 'Project Possible'". Dreamwanderlust.com.com. Retrieved 26 May 2019.
67. "Reflections While Waiting for News from Shishapangma". Explorersweb.com. 29 October 2019. Retrieved 26 November 2019.
68. https://www.npr.org/2019/10/29/774350376/nepalese-climber-summits-worlds-14-highest-peaks-in-6-months-smashing-record
69. I have summitted Cho Oyu 4 times and will be heading for my fifth this coming season. Each time I have watched the Koreans and Japanese go only to where they can see Everest, not the summit, because they know this is what will be asked."Cho Oyu summit: Where is it exactly". Explorersweb.com. September 2017.
70. Many people who climb Cho Oyu in Tibet stop at a set of prayer flags with views of Everest and believe they’ve reached the top, unaware they still have to walk for 15 minutes across the summit plateau until they can see the Gokyo Lakes in Nepal."When is a summit not a summit?". Mark Horrell. 12 November 2014.
71. "Asia, Tibet, Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma Central (West) Summit". American Alpine Journal. 1991.
72. Keeper of the Mountains: The Elizabeth Hawley Story. Rocky Mountain Books. 5 October 2012. pp. 185–195. ISBN 978-1927330159.
73. Elizabeth Hawley (2014). "Seasonal Stories for the Nepalese Himalaya 1985–2014" (PDF). The Himalayan Database. p. 274. But a South Korean climber, who followed in their footprints on the crusted snow three days later [in 1997] in clearer weather, did not consider that they actually gained the top. While [Sergio] Martini and [Fausto] De Stefani indicated they were perhaps only a few meters below it, Park Young-Seok claimed that their footprints stopped well before the top, perhaps 30 meters below a small fore-summit and 150 vertical meters below the highest summit. Now in 2000 [Sergio] Martini was back again, and this time he definitely summited Lhotse.
74. AdventureStats.net, Official records. "Climbers that have summited 10 to 13 of the 14 Main-8000ers". Retrieved 30 November 2008.
75. Elizabeth Hawley (2014). "Seasonal Stories for the Nepalese Himalaya 1985–2014" (PDF). The Himalayan Database. p. 347. But his claim to have now climbed all 8000ers is open to question. In April 1990 he and others reached the summit plateau of Cho Oyu. It was misty so they could not see well; nine years later Hinkes said he had “wandered around for a while” in the summit area but could see very little and eventually descended to join the others, one of whom said they had not reached the top.
76. "Vladislav Terz". www.russianclimb.com. Retrieved 28 April 2016.
77. "AdventureStats – by Explorersweb". www.adventurestats.com. Retrieved 28 April 2016.
78. Russianclimb.com, Mountaineering World of Russia & CIS. "Vladislav Terzyul, List of ascents". Retrieved 6 October 2009.
79. "Sad results on Makalu and Unanswered Questions: 1 missing climber and 1 passed away on Makalu". Everestnews2004.com. Archived from the original on 12 May 2012. Retrieved 21 February 2014.
80. "Everest K2 News ExplorersWeb – More dark clouds mounting on Anna summit push; Miss Oh's Kanchen summit "disputed" after renewed accusations". Explorersweb.com. 26 April 2010. Retrieved 21 January 2014.
81. "New doubts over Korean Oh Eun-Sun's climbing record, Hawley to investigate". BBC News. 27 August 2010.
82. What would appear to be the most serious blow to Miss Oh, on 26 August this year the Korean Alpine Federation, the nation's largest climbing association, concluded that Miss Oh had not reached the top of Kangchenjunga."Seasonal Stories for the Nepalese Himalaya 1985–2014" (PDF). Elizabeth Hawley. 2014. p. 394.
83. "Desnivel; Carlos Pauner consigue la cima del Everest". Desnivel.com. Archived from the original on 23 October 2015. Retrieved 21 January 2014.
84. "Carlos Pauner is not sure if they hit the top of the Shisha Pangma (8,027)". lainformacion.com. 18 February 2016.
85. "CCTV; 罗静等23名中国登山者登顶希夏邦马峰". CCTV. 29 September 2018. Retrieved 5 June 2019.
86. "The Himalayan Times; Four Chinese climbers complete all 14 peaks above 8,000m this autumn". The Himalayan Times. 29 September 2018. Retrieved 5 June 2019.
87. "Luo Jing no alcanzó la cima principal del Shisha Pangma" [Luo Jing did not reach the main peak of the Shishapangma] (in Spanish). Desnivel.com. 4 October 2018. Retrieved 25 September 2020.

External links

• 8000ers.com, a site dedicated to statistics on 8000m peaks and climbs
• PeakBagger.com World 8000-meter Peaks, a database of global peaks
• The Himalayan Database, statistics on Nepalese Himalayan (but not Pakistan Himalaya) climbs from 1905 to 2018
• Graphical Interface for The Himalayan Database
• AdventureStats.com (High Altitude Mountaineering), a site dedicated to recording adventure statistics
• NASA Earth Observatory: The Eight-Thousanders
• Eight Thousanders Tracking Expeditons On Line from Alpinismonline Magazine

Kangchenjunga

The south face of Lhotse, as seen from Chukhung Ri.

This sports-related list is incomplete; you can help by expanding it.

Date	Name	Nationality
17 May 2019	Ivan Tomov	Bulgaria	Cerebral edema	[1]
17 May 2018	Rustem Amirov	Russia	Altitude sickness	[2]
19 May 2016	Ang Furba Sherpa	Nepal	Fall	[3]
27 April 2015	Hiroshi Yamagata	Japan	Avalanche (2015 Mount Everest avalanches)	[4]
25 April 2015	Zhen-Fang Ge	China	Avalanche (2015 Mount Everest avalanches)	[4]
18 April 2014	Asman Tamang	Nepal	Avalanche (2014 Mount Everest ice avalanche)	[5]
20 May 2013	Hsiao-Shih Lee	China	Altitude sickness	[6][7]
16 October 2012	Temba Sherpa	Nepal	Fall	[8]
21 May 2012	Milan Sedláček	Czech Republic	Exhaustion	[9]
7 May 2010	Sergey Duganov	Russia	Altitude sickness	[10][11][12]
25 May 2009	Sergey Samoilov	Kazakhstan	Fall	[13][14]
21 May 2007	Pemba Doma	Nepal	Fall	[14][15]
9 May 2006	Pavel Kalný	Czech Republic	Fall	[14][16]
5 October 2003	Sun-dug Hwang	South Korea	Avalanche (on Lhotse Shar)	[14]
5 October 2003	Joo-hoon Park	South Korea	Avalanche (on Lhotse Shar)	[14]
17 September 2000	Vladimir Bondarev	Russia	Avalanche	[14]
27 May 1997	Vladimir Bashkirov	Russia	Illness	[14][17]
24 October 1989	Jerzy Kukuczka	Belgium	Fall	[14][18]
27 September 1987	Antoni (Toni) Sors	Spain	Avalanche (on Lhotse Shar)	[14]
27 September 1987	Sergio Escalera	Spain	Avalanche (on Lhotse Shar)	[14]
27 September 1987	Francesc Porras	Spain	Avalanche (on Lhotse Shar)	[14]
27 September 1987	Antonio Quiñones	Spain	Avalanche (on Lhotse Shar)	[14]
14 September 1987	Czesław Jakiel	Poland	Avalanche	[14]
30 October 1986	Pedro Alonso	Spain	Fall (on Lhotse Shar)	[14]
25 October 1985	Rafał Chołda	Poland	Fall	[14]
16 October 1981	Philippe Petten	Switzerland	Disappearance (on Lhotse Shar)	[14]
16 October 1981	Pierre Favez	Switzerland	Disappearance (on Lhotse Shar)	[14]

1. "Bulgarian climber dies at Camp IV on Mt Lhotse". thehimalayantimes.com. 17 May 2019.
2. "Russian climber dies on Mt Lhotse as summit bids underway on different peaks". The Himalayan Times. 18 May 2018. Retrieved 20 May 2018.
3. "Over 200 summitting Mount Everest today; a Sherpa guide dies". Retrieved 20 May 2013.
4. "Everest: List of Avalanche Victims". Retrieved 29 April 2015.
5. "Spring 2014". Retrieved 25 January 2019.
6. "7th Death on Everest in 2013". Retrieved 20 May 2013.
7. "Taiwan mountaineer dies while attempting to scale peak in Nepal". Archived from the original on 22 June 2013. Retrieved 1 June 2013.
8. Un sherpa fallece en el ataque a cima del Lhotse; Kuriki sigue subiendo en el Everest. Desnivel. 18 October 2012
9. Šedivý, Filip & Hromádka, Martin (22 May 2012). "Horolezec Sedláček zahynul na himalájské osmitisícovce Lhotse – Zprávy.rozhlas.cz – ověřené a aktuální informace 24 hodin denně, 7 dní v týdnu". Rozhlas.cz.
10. Everest & Himalaya 2010 Season's End Chronicle, Take 1: 8000er Collectors, Everest Serial Summiteers and Lost Climbers. explorersweb.com. 18 August 2010
11. "Everest 2010: Rescues and Casualties". theadventureblog.blogspot.ru. 27 May 2010.
12. "Weather Watch – Everest 2010 – Mt. Everest 2010 Season Coverage". alanarnette.com. 9 May 2010. Archived from the original on 17 August 2012.
13. "Kazakhstan Expedition Everest Lhotsze-2009 – Sergey Samoilov perished on Lhotse". Mountain.kz. Archived from the original on 14 March 2012. Retrieved 9 July 2012.
14. "Fatalities Lhotse". 8000ers.com. Retrieved 10 June 2011.
15. "Famous female Nepal climber dead". BBC News. 23 May 2007. Retrieved 8 May 2010.
16. Lhotse fall update: Czech Pavel Kalny lost, Martin Minarik uninjured Archived 4 December 2008 at the Wayback Machine. mounteverest.net. 12 May 2006
17. Results of the season 1997. Himalayan expeditions. Plans for 1998 season. risk.ru
18. "Famed Polish climber dies in accident - UPI Archives". Upi.com. 26 October 1989. Retrieved 10 June 2016.